Archive for the ‘Culturel Details of Nevşehir’ Category

The Haci Bektaş-ı Veli Complex

Monday, September 15th, 2008

The Haci Bektaş-ı Veli Complex

The architectural structure and historical development of this complex, which is located in the Hacıbektaş sub-distri of Turkey’s Nevşehir province and is the site where the patron saint of the Bektaşi order of Islam is buried, is complex to say the least. This group of buildings, which were first founded in the mid l3th century and continued to expand over the centuries until the first quaiter of the 20th century are, in all their aspects,one of the rare surviving examples of a “külliye” or complex of buildings around a place of worship founded by one of the non-sunnite orders of  Islam, and  as such occupies  an important place in the history of Turkish architecture.

It is known that Hacı Bektaş-ı Veli (d.1271), who was a disciple of Baba İlyas-ı Horasani (d.1240), came to Hacıbektaş, or Sulucakarahöyük as it was then known and set up a dervish convent or retreat in his own name. The only element of the original convent, (which must have been a fairly modest building) to  have survived is the small cell known as “Kızılca Halvet” (the rosy cell), said to have been used by Hacı Bektaş-ı Veli himself. It is the tomb of Hacı Bektaş-ı Veli, together with the retreat referred to above, that should be regarded as the nucleus of this complex. It was in the l4th century, defined as “the formation period of the Bektaüi movement” by A.Y Ocak, an expert on the subject, that a group of buildings considerably larger than the original one began to take shape.

Balım Sultan (d.1516), regarded as the Bektaşi sect’s second founder (pîr-i sânisi), assumed the role of sheikh of the Hacı  Bektaş-ı Veli dervish convent with the support of Bayezit II in 1501 (H.907) and, with his interpretations of religious doctrine brought the semi-independent dervish groups which were under the moral influence of the Hacı Bektaş centre, under the centre’s umbrella and organised them under a centralised administration under the guidance of a group of elders. The Hacı Bektaş-ı Veli complex, which was the centre of the movement, set up new dervish convents in the rapidly expanding territories of the Ottomans with the support of the Corps of Janissaries (which was under their religious influence) and the “beys” (heads of clans that were then advancing into Rumelia), thus increasing both their sphere of influence and wealth, and building a num- ber of new centres in the process from the first quarter of the l6th century onwards.

The Bektaüi movement was abolished by Mahmut II in 1826 when he abolished the Corps of Janissaries. Meanwhile, the Pîr Evi (tomb of the Founder) which, like other buildings belonging to the order, could not be demolished, were classified as “being of historic value” and turned over to the Nakşibendi order. However, as a result of the freedoms achieved in the Tanzimat (reform) Period, Hacı Bektaş-ı Veli was moved to the present museum. Major repairs to the complex were started by the Ministry of  Education in1958  and continued in  1959 by the Foundations General Directorate. The group of buildings, which were repaired and restored more or less according to the original, were, together with the many .. original items inside them, opened as a museum in 1964.

The Prospects for Tomorrow: Cappadocia in the Future

Sunday, September 14th, 2008

The Prospects for Tomorrow: Cappadocia in the Future

CULTUREL DETAILS OF NEVŞEHİR

The Prospects for Tomorrow:Cappadocia in the Future

In the 1960’s and 1970’s the centre of the Cappadocia “planet” in the triangle of Nevşehir-Avanos-Ürgüp had less than a ten hotels which conformed to touristic standards. The number of incoming tourists, most of whom were Frenchmen was quite low. The mumber of ‘Iiırkish groups was also small but on a rising trend parallel to the fast growth of domestic tourism, although the condition of the roads and hotels was far from adaquate. Yet despite all these shortcomings, there was the pleasure of walking in the dusty roads of a region which was not fully discovered for the time being. The concerete buildings which had begun to appear here and there were still too few to cause any alarm.

The “Tourism Bomb” which exploded in the early 1980’s effected the Cappadocia region as it did all the other regions of Turkey, In all the townships of the region a better organised tourism sector began to show itself. Better information and advertising, construction of hotels with high standands and the training of the service personnel caused an outstanding increase in the number of tourists during the mid 1980’s. This was the long awaited tourism boom. The people of Göreme and Ürgüp reorganised their homes and began to rent their rooms. Yet the number of tourists was increasing so fast that the great number of new hotels were never able to meet the demand. Things were better than the highest expectations when the gulf war suddenly caused a crises. This was followed by the events in Souteastern Anatolia and the civil war in Bosnia-Herzegovnia. The number of tourists  begun to decline and the new coustructions remain unfinished, as they were.

Yet, in the long run all the regional and international politic and economic crises and problems did not end the flow of tourists. The faithful visitors of this unique region continued to come although in declining numbers.

There is no doubt that the treasures of this cradle of civilisations in the middle of Anatolia shall forever continue to attract visitors from ail around the world to the center of Asia Minor. Cappadocia shall keep its uniqe place in the world of future as it has done until now.

The richess of Cooadocia is not limited to natural beauty and historic values. This region has a very colourful folklore which includes an art stemming from agriculture and eartehenwares. The art of pottery in Avanos, which was the Venessa of Hitites is a tradition coming down  from untold centuries. The river Kızılırmak whose ancient name is Halys, divides the town of Avanos which has nearly 250 worksohps. The pitchers, jugs and reproductions of antic earthen ware seen in the shops selling decorative objects, in all the big cities of Turkey and some European centers have became one of the major sources of income for the region. Coppadocia is also famous with its carpets and carpet trade. In the many shops of the region it is possible to find all sizes and sorts of carpets coming from all regions of Turkey.

The Soğanlı village which is 50 kilometres from Ürgüp has become touristic in mid 1970’s and is famous for its hand made Cappadocia dolls. This village which was very poor until recent times has now attained a considerable dgree of wellfore thanks to these naive dolls.

Leaving carpets, antique dealers and potmakers to one side, the region is exporting its grapes, potatoes and onions cultivated on its lime earth with the addition of piegon dung. Vinary is a very old tradition in the region, being the mystical drink of its ancient dwellers. Today, one of the most important International Vine Festivals of Turkey are regularly held in Ürgüp and both the state and private vinaries are competing to make the highest quality vines.

One of the must important sources of wealth in the region is the store houses carved into rocks to function as cool depots. Many tons of citrus fruits are brought here from Mersin every year, to be stored in perfect condition before being exported.

The stunning natural beanties and the historical riches stemming out from every corner alongside the colourful folklore are the most important assets of the Coppadocia Region for the future. Yet the region is extremeley sensitive to factors which may endanger its future. If Coppadocia will be respected and cared for as much as it is loved, and the natural and historical sites will be protected without putting an additional nail, than it may really lead to a thriving tourism sector, provided that it shall also have a real international airport.

Cappadocia belongs not only to us but to all mankind, our children and our grandchildren, Coppadocia is universal. It is our future coming from our past.

Regional Roads and Commercial Traffic

Saturday, September 13th, 2008

Regional Roads and Commercial Traffic

The roadways have been reduced in length over the centuries by a number of bridges, but the main roadshaving been in continuous use-have undergone little change; in fact, one of the basic objectives of the military organi- zations was to maintain these roads.Dr.Kınal believes that the “overland roads between Anatolia and Mesopotamia, which had in use since the time of King Sargon of Akkad and was heavily traveled in the Kültepe period, were undoubtedly also in use in the Hittite period. Studies to identify these roads have concluded that this road went from Hattusha-Kanesh (Kültepe) to Tegarama (Gürün) to Darende-Melit (Malatya) to Samusat (Samsat) to Urshu (Urfa), from where it branched into two roıites; one arm led west to Kargamish (Cerablus) and IIalpa (Aleppo), the other led east through Nisibis (Nusaybin) to Asur and Babylon.  Artefacts of the Hittite period have been recovered from all these sites.  Another route that connected Anatolia to northern Syria began in Kuzzuwatna, led through the  gülek straits and continued on to Aleppo, Kinza and Kadeshe.” In addition to the clay pellet artefacts at places like Fraktin, we may add the long hieroglyphic Hittite inscription at the village of Karaburna, about eight kilometers from Hacıbektaş and the reliefs at Karapınar and even Imamkulu, and Ivriz to provide a general overview of the Hittite period. To complete the picture, we should note that Göllüdağ is located at a central point in the region. Some researchers have indicated that a settlement near Aksaray, about 80 kilometers from Niğde, whose ancient name is still unknown, and which is located at a protected site at a height of 2,143 meters on the west side of the Ihlara valley, was connected to sites where reliefs and inscriptions are located, including Bor, Niğde, Andaval, Veliisa, Çiftlik, Karapınar, Topada, Suvasa, Karaburna to Sivas; and from Bohcha, Kayseri, Erkilet, Kültepe, Eğrek, Karakuyu, Gürün, Darende to Malatya; and from Fraktin, Tashchı, Imamkulu, Izgın and Karatumulus to. Elbistan; it also had connecting arteries to Gelveri, Ihlara, Selime to Aksaray and Acemtumulus.

The Royal road, which was the chief road that connected West to East in Anatolia, also joined the main settlements of Phrygia to the north of Cappadocia. At the same time, this road and the main routes led from the Black sea to the south, one of which passed to the west of the Kızılırmak along the shores of Tuz lake to Aksaray and from there to the vicinity of Kemerhisar (Tyana) south of Niğde and the other of which descended from Sinop through Kayseri. The key road linking Kayseri to the Aegean coast in the Greco-Roman period passed through Cappadocia. This road went from Ephesus, Manisa (Magnesia), Aydın (Tralle), Sultanhisar (Nyssa), Mastavra Kale (Mastaura), Karrura, Hasköy (Attuda), Eskihisar (Laodikeia), Honoz (Kolossia),  Dinar  (Apameia),  Haydarlı  (Etropolis), Yalvaç  (Antiocheia Pissidiae), Yargan, Ladik (Laodikeia Katakekaumene), Koropassos, Aksaray (Gausaura), Soandan, Sakasene, Viranşehir, Kayseri (Kaisareia), Serezek (Arasaxa),  Herpa,  Pınarbaşı  (Ariaratheia),  Arslanbeyle  (Coduzalaba), Kuruçay-Bel Incilise, Göksün (Cocussuz), Yarpuz (Arabissos) and Arkas to Malatya (Melitan). Despite the lacunae in our knowledge concerning the settlements, it seems possible to ascertain the main routes. One route led from ankara to Cilicia and from the shore of Tuz lake to the eastern flanks of Mount Hasan Dağı and from there through Kemerhisar (Tyana); the other originated in Pessinus, led through Aksaray to west of Nevşehir (Soandoz) and through Kayseri. The Roman roads, as Thierry reports based on three sources, include the route followed by Antonin in the third century A.D., another is the itinerary outlined by Peutinger in the fourth century A.D. and the third is the Jerusalem road as it was in the sixth century A.D. According to these sources, one terminus for the route they proposed for the north-south road through Ankara was Pariasan (Parnassos) and from there along the Çeneköy river (Ozzizala-Nitazo) to Acemtumulus (Austama?) to Aksaray (Colanea Archelais), to Mamasun (Momoassun), Bekar (Nenezi, Naziance), Bartumulus (Chussa?), wesf of Göllüdağ,  Hasköy (Sasima), Andavalköy (Andabalis), Niğde, Kemerhisar (Tyana), Ulukışla (Halala Faustinopolis) and the Gülek straits.

This route was complemented by a pass with a secondary route leading from the west through the valleys. This road descended from Mamasun to the south and passed through  Selime  (Salabrina?),Gelveri (Karbala), Sivrihisar,  Melendiz . (Malandasa),  Göniye  (Quniya?),  Belkis  (or Balysa, Valisa) to Niğde. This road became a route of preference of the Byzantines.They also often traveled by the East-West route joining Aksaray to Kayseri that led from Bekar, Derinkuyu, Kaymaklı, Nevşehir and from there to Aksaray, Bekar,Acıgöl (Topada, Dadata) and Nevşehir (Nissa, Soandoz).The Thierrys, assuming that the Byzantines believed the Roman roads were most appropriate for trade and whose distances were shorter and that for this reason they were developed, claim that there was a road system to link Nevşehir to Kayseri and Niğde.If this is so, one route would have passed through Nevşehir, Uçhisar and Göreme (Korama) (with Avanos lying to the north of it) to Kayseri and Ortahisar would have stood at the crossroads.In fact, with the valley formed by the Balkan river, Ortahisar reduces the leng’th of the Nevşehir to Mustafapaşa road.  Hence, we see that Ortahisar, which lies on the Niğde-Kayseri Roman road with the side road that leads to Nevşehir, branches off at the intersection of Yeşilhisar (Cyzistra) and intersects with the Nevşehir, Uçhisar, Göreme to Kayseri road. It is of interest to note that another commercial route in the Avanos area is formed by a second intersection of the Roman road that follows the Kızılırmak and the Hacıbektaş, Gülşehir (Arapsun-Zoropassos) road.Yet, Avanos is typically given less  importance  in  this  commercial  triangle  of  Hacıbektaş- GülŞehir-Nevşehir-Avanos. As we indicated earlier, the commercial and geographical position of Avanos that is, the position of its commercial goods and bridgewas significant. These roads were in use by human traffic throughout history and these were, particularly, the most direct routes between the active and leading cities.We should recall that Avanos developed into an important commercial center due to the fact that Avanos was a major center of religious culture because of the Zeus temple located in the city in the Roman Byzantine period (both banks of the Kızılırmak were active transit avenues for the distribution of the commercial commodities). Avanos at the time it is described by Gregoir of Nissa was a leading city. In addition, the shortest route from Nevşehir and the one from Hacıbektaş to Kayseri which passed through Avanos,  Sofular and  Karatumulus  and Avanos and Sarı han to Kayseri were heavily traveled in the Roman Byzantine period.

Regional Socio-Economic Life In The Pre-Seljuk And Ottoman Era

Friday, September 12th, 2008

Regional Socio-Economic Life In The Pre-Seljuk And Ottoman Era

The Persians preserved the local autonomy, collected taxes in a fairly just fashion and defended it with the military units they conscripted.It soon became apparent that the victory of Alexander’s victory remained superfi cial. The Diadokhos dynasty took the place of the dynasty that had existed prior to the Persian invasion (the generals who set up autonomous rule and partitioned the empire following the death of Alexander).The shortage of easily worked fertile lands and, especially, the sparse population prevented the selection of agricultural cultivation as the chief source of wealth.Hence, a foundation of urban settlements in conjunction with commerce gained importance in Cappadocia, particularly in the Classical period.In these early periods,commerce constituted the final hope of those who had no land. In the final analysis, such an arrangement rested on the more or less autonomous rural communities, organized by tribes, who participated in the system as producer, consumer and the actual defender of the transit roads, but who were never fully integrated.

Commerce unsupported by products from the land led to an economic crisis in Cappadocia as well as the entire state. The depression which lasted until Diocletian ascended the throne in 284 suddenly worsened  after Antonin RLER?? The empire in this period-that is, the concept of the centralization-began to dissolve and break away from the center. The consequent drastic decline in the volume of money which led to the closing of the estates of the great landowners and, at the same time, the diminishment in slave labor power (the exhaustion of slave reproduction, who had been obtained in the wars of expansion; and the financial impossibility of securing new ones) stimulated the drive to organize a new land system. Land was divided between two classes. The nobles (indominicatum), which included a sizeable portion of workable land, together with housing in villas, repre  sented one landholder; the other was the villagers who were called “free” (coloni) and who had farms (manses). One-tenth of the produce of the colon was given to the landlord. In addition, they expended a great proportion of their time and labor on the lord’s land.

İn the following phases, agricultural production relation became even more burdensome with the changes in con ditions. The position of the colon  peasant was unchanging and hereditary and compulsory.His being bound to the land was both a right and a compulsion; if he were to flee, his legal rights would be identical to those of a slave and when caught would be severely punished.

Earlier, the people had tended to flee the land, because the conditions under which they lived were harsh and they tried to escape from them.The villagers were leaving the lands; the craftsmen were deserting their occupa- tions; the Decurion (the local Roman administrator) was avoiding his duties on the municipal council.The officials could find only one solution for this disaster. To clamp down on everyone and close the routes of escape.The emperors in order to keep the cadres of the civilization from collapsing and disappearing was to sentence the populace to the equivalent of a life sentence of hard labor.Difficult though it was, in the end, a stability was obtained.

In the Byzantine era, starting from the reign of Phocos till that of Basil II, a policy of expansion was pursued, which reached a climax in the reign of Basil II. A series of wars were conducted that in the short run brought victory but which, in the long run, led to destruction. And feudalism was at its height. Though the great feudal lords had much damage inflicted on them by the restrictive legislation of the emperors in the tenth century, in they end, they came out on top.  In the period following the death of the Great Basileos, the great estates rapidly expanded; by contrast, the small property owners who were of military and peasant origins began to collapse.  The peasants, who were bound to the land were being crushed by taxes, duties and forced labor, turned to the agesold response of fleeing the land, even without knowing where to turn. Regardless of how restrictive the forms of bondage to the land were made the numbers of those fleeing from the countryside was equally increasing.  Small property owners were selling their lands to the elite. In fact, an entire village population even might leave all ,their property behind and face a situation which was heartbreaking. Later this the state would take control of this property and land for the benefit of a few monasteries.  Villagers in a position where they could no longer pay their taxes-small property owners or renters-often had no other option than to flee. This was the first thing that came to mind, and though it was easy, it proved but a temporary solution. We believe that only a few of them settled in towns; otherwise, they turned to banditry.

Cappadocia represented a world sought by the Christian clergy, one which was difficult to attain; it satisfied their desires and expectations for the next world. The special nature of this place presented to the Christian masses a land that was lost to the world. The special position of Cappadocia began to represent the utopia that was sought in this world.  It was the last natural world that could be reached on the journey of belief which led directly to god-a fragment of another planet. G. de Jerphanion stated that “If a silhouette of a city on the Moon could be glimpsed, there is no question but that it would look like Ürgüp.” The next stage was to believe it that it conformed to the appearance of the next world. That is why they devoted themselves to withdraw from the world in this special land. In particular, monks journeying from other places believed that they had come to the end of the way and, after having carved out a shelf in a fairy chimney for themselves, they spent the remainder of their life in this silent and imaginary dream-like nature and retreat.  In this other world, they expended their efforts to create a human community and establish human relations in the way god would have wished and facilitate religious ties between human beings and god.

This dreamlike geography of Cappadocia was one of the most important factors in the creation of a mystic thought: Though at first glance, it bears a harsh appearance and seems hostile to humankind and a place difficult to live-in the face of danger, the need to find refuge, save property and life and withdraw from the face of the earth-it offers the possibility of easy seclusion underground. Thus, we see that people embraced the region with a curious passion. We might now turn to the very critical role played by Cappadocia in the spreading of Christianity in Anatolia.

Nevşehir, The Capital Of Cappadocia

Wednesday, August 20th, 2008

Nevşehir, The Capital Of Cappadocia

CULTUREL DETAILS OF NEVŞEHİR

Nevşehir, The Capital Of Cappadocia

In the mythology of the Hittites and the Phrygians, the region of Nevşehir lies on the planet of Cappadocia, whose creation was the work of the Gods of the Volcanoes and which was shaped by the soft and  magical hands  of  the  Gods  of the  Rains  and the  Winds. Cappadocia represents a site where Nature and History have commingled in the most beautiful fashion in the world. While geographical circumstances created the Fairy Chimneys, human beings in the course of the historical process sculpted the interiors of these Fairy Chimneys to construct their dwellings and churches, which they decorated with frescoes that have survived as witnesses of civilizations thousands of years old.  To preserve this incredible cultural treasury and prevent its capture by others, Thales of Miletus himself divided the Kızılırmağı river (the ancient Halys) into two sections to facilitate the crossing by the forces of the Lydian king to oppose the Persian invading forces. The first scientific calculations in history were also carried out here.  Nevşehir constitutes the capital city of the planet Cappadocia. But, the renown of Cappadocia has so intensified as to extend beyond the nation’s boundaries and overwhelm that of Nevşehir itself, which has nearly been forgotten.  Here, therefore, we hope to conduct a complete survey of the historical and cultural aspect of the Nevşehir area.

The natural beauties and cultural wealth in the environs of Avanos, Zelye and Göreme have attracted the attention of historical writers and travelers for centuries.  Historically, Cappadocia was first known as “Katpatuka” in the Persian period, signifying a region where fine horses were bred. It has not yet been resolved whether the word is of Hatti, Luwian, Hittite or Assyrian origin.  Surviving documents make mention of horses and horse- breeding in this area. During the Great Kingdom period (1460-1190 B.C.), the  Hittites  assigned  great importance to  horses  and  horsebreeding. Correspondingly, they imported expert horsebreeders from the land of the Mitanni and transmitted their expertise to future generations by inscribing their words on clay tablets. As evidence, we might refer to a work written by a young Mitanni horsebreeding specialist named Kikkuli, which has been recovered from the contemporary Boğazköy state archives.

Precious histories have survived from the pens of Xenophon (401 B.C.), Strabon of Amasya (18 A.D.), Gregoir of Nissa (334-94 A.D.) and a young vineyard keeper of Machan (now, Göreme) (495-515 A.D.).  Paul Lucas, appointed by the French Royal Court to travel in the countries of the Mediterranean, was the first observer of the modern period to acquaint Europeans with this fascinating area.

On his way from Ankara to Kayseri in the month of August 1705, Paul Lucas, who had been commanded by the French king Louis XIV to conduct research in the countries of the East, was astonished upon his arrival in the vicinity of Avanos and Ürgüp. The geologzcal structure-which closely resembles a fairytale land the curious spatial units of rock in which the inhabitants dwelled, the churches and the colorful world of their interiors left him in a state of amazement.

After Lucas returned home, he published his notes in a two-volume book of travels in Paris in 1712.  Describing his observations in the Cappadocian region, he produced a rather fanciful description heightened by his imagnation, thus: “…When I first came upon the ancient structural ruins lying on the opposite bank of the Kızılırmak, I fell into a state of utter bewilderment.  Here stood countless-heretofore unknown-pyramidal formations…. Each of these formations possessed a beautiful door, a charming staircase by which to gain entrance and large windows in all the rooms to secure illu- mination.  Within a single rock mass had been hewn a number of living quarters, each lying one above the other…. They numbered not several hundreds, but more than a couple of thousand.  At first, I assumed that these pyramids represented dwellings that had formerly belonged to monks. For their shapes recalled that of ecclesiastical caps.  Afterwards, however, I detected that they possessed a variety of forms.”

On his second journey through the region in 1714, he characterized the Fairy Chimneys as the “ancient cemetery of a vanished city.” This prompted a great scandal in the court of King Louis XIV. The members of the Court were convinced that Paul Lucas was a pathological liar (mithmom,anie); in fact, the French ambassador in Istanbul asserted that he wanted to make a personal investigation of the region to determine whether or not Paul Lucas was telling the truth.  Comte Desalleurs confirmed that the facts of the cir- cumstances were true and that pyramidal shaped entities existed. When the  book of travels was published it aroused a great public debate in Europe. Ürgüp and vicinity, which were shown in the engravings, represented quite a remote locale for the Europe of that day. Moreover, the information supplied by Lucas was not supported by ancient sources on this subject.  The fantastic depiction furnished by Lucas was very tantalizing to the West, but for some it was beyond belief and greeted with incredulity.  The German writer, C.M. Wieland (1753-1814) expressed such criticism, as follows: “It is impossible to give credence to the claim that such a great number of houses in the shape of pyramids exists when the subject is not given the slight- est notice by any of the ancient writers or travel books.”

A more realistic description of Ürgüp and Göreme was provided by the French traveler Charles Texier who visited the region some one hundred fiftyyears after Lucas. This well-known architect, who was assigned by the French government the task of conducting research in Anatolia, examined the Cappadocia region in a painstaking manner in the course of his journeys undertaken in 1833 and 1837. Publishing the results of his travels and research in Anatolia in a monumental, six-volume work titled Description, de l’Asie Mineure, which included engravings and plans, he states at one point that “…Nature had never displayed herself to the foreign observer’s eye in such an extraordinary fashion. I have never heard of a more long-lived and dream-like natural phenomenon in any other region of the world.”

European  travelers  after  Lucas  in the  nineteenth  century  came to Cappadocia to conduct studies of a scientific nature; yet, they were unable to disguise their astonishment upon their encounters with this bizarre geology. The English traveler W.F. Ainsworth recounts the surreal appearance of the volcanic valley, thus:  “After crossing a valley that extends the length of the river, we suddenly found ourselves in a forest composed of rocks of conical and columnar form which surrounded us in an utterly bewildering manner.  It was as if we were touring the ruins of some very ancient and vast city.  Some of the cones carried on their peaks large and randomly shaped fragments of rock.”

In July 1837, W.J. Hamilton, a prominent English geologist, arrived in the area and, lending support to Texier’s view, agreed that “Words fail one in attempting to describe the appearance of this extraordinary locale.”  The leading Prussian field marshal Moltke, who visited Ürgüp on his way from Nevşehir to Kayseri, noted the characteristic tissue of the region by stating that “An ancient citadel perched on a rocky cliff, which rose up perpendicularly and into which a number of caves had been hewn in a peculiar manner, overlooked the town.  The houses of Ürgüp were of stone and constructed in a most elegant manner…. The mountain valley lying behind Ürgüp was covered with vineyards and cleft by deep ravines.  On their slopes stand fantastic castles such as are depicted on old wallpaper.”

Fuller information concerning the rock churches appeared in the work titled Description de l’Asie Mineure, which Texier published in 1862. In the volume he published jointly with the English architect R.P. Pullan in 1864 on Byzantine architecture, the rock churches of Ürgüp and environs are thoroughly discussed. The Englishman W.J. Hamilton expressed his amazement by exclaiming that “Words are inadequate to describe the appearance of this extraordinary place.”  Scientific studies and publications began in the late nineteenth century. Physical analyses of the Cappadocian region and the utilization of historical sources were executed by scientists,  such as A.D. Mordtmann, W.M. Ramsey, J.R.S. Sterret and Charles Texier. The monumen- tal work published by G. de Jerphanion between the years 1907-12 was the first extensive art historical study to examine in a systematic rrianner the rock churches, monasteries and the wall frescoes on their interiors.  In 1958, the French Nicole Thierry and Catherine Jolivet published those churches excluded from the study by the priest Jerphanion, thereby assisting in endowing Cappadocia with its present-day renown.

Earliest Evidence Of Human Habitation In The Region

Though paleolithic remains can be identified in the area, this cultural phase occurs fairly late and possibly represents the last paleolithic era.  In any case, this is supported by all the data that has been thus far recovered. The reason may be that the Würm glacier covered the Anatolian plateau for iong ages and that the eruption of volcanoes, in particular, would have made human occupation impossible.  Yet, despite the absence of evidence, it is undeniable that the valleys of the Cappadocian region where the river banks and sources of fresh water are abundant offered extremely favorable living conditions for early human settlement.  It should not be an error to assume that tufa represented a warm habitation space for human life, because it could usually be easily worked-by obsidian, for example, a much harder stone-without the need for metal. The rocky heights along the sides of the valley were also obviously appropriate for protective purposes.  We know that for hundreds of thousands of years human communities maintained their existence by gathering fruit and hunting and fishing and that they settled along river banks because of their critical dependence on water. In this respect, the Kızılırmak river undoubtedly served an historical function.  The lack of confirming evidence for these events is a consequence of living nature in Cappadocia; over time, successive communities reworked the traces they encountered, and each resettlement effaced and obliterated the older imprints.  This has made it very difficult and even impossible to date the spatial volumes in the rocks of Cappadocia.

Near Gelveri, in addition to the notable settlements and artefacts of Hittite origin, which bear a prehistoric connection to Continental European cultures, English archeologists have recovered paleolithic and neolithic stone tools at Avla Tepesi, eight kilometers southeast of Ürgüp.  Similarly, the British Archeological Institute of Ankara discovered quite interesting finds in a study of prehistoric sites conducted between 1964-66.  The results of this surface field research headed by Ian Todd identified a nıimber of settlement sites-the earliest of which was Neolithic-most of which were in the Nevşehir and Niğde areas.  The towns of İğdeli Çeşme, Acıgöl and Tatlar, which lie within the provincial boundaries of Nevşehir, are a few of the sites that witnessed very large Neolithic era settlements. The excavations of Acemtumulus being conducted at Yeşilova near Tuz Gölü (at Tat), which lies 18 kilometers northwest of the town of Aksaray, are of prime interest. The finds from the dig can be assigned dates ranging from the late fourth to the mid-seventh centuries. A settlement with houses arranged in a regular fashion has come to light beneath Byzantine structures. The artefacts suggest that this was an undefended settlement occupied with agricultural cultivation. The level (Level 3) postdating the Byzantine settlement, which is no doubt Roman, produced pottery of Hellenistic character and may be dated to the first century B.C.-first century A.D. The cultural stratum of approximately four meters that lies beneath this level is also associated with the Hellenistic period.  These settlements, which comprise four structural levels, all exhibit evidence of fire and earthquakes. Level 4 settlement was terminated by a violent fire.  Level 5 preserves the terror of earthquake with the remains of two elderly persons in tortured postures, caught in the act of attempting to protect themselves from the onslaught. The twisted bodies of two youths were found in Level 7 which had been leveled by fire.  After Level 8, houses of megaron make their appearance. A wall of sundried brick was uncovered in Level 16, which had been laid on a terrace of fill. Level 17, dated to 600-500 B.C., contained burnished red earthenware with geometric motifs.  Cultural artefacts of the Hittites and the Early Bronze age occurred in Levels 19-24. City wall fragments exhibiting a simple technique and pots of Hittite style were recovered from Levels 19, 20 and 22. Remains of the Chalcolithic and Early Bronze ages up to 4,000 B.C. were common. The excavations begyun in 1968 in the vicinity of the Hacıbektaş tumulus (Sulucakara tumulus), which contains relics dated to the Early through Middle  Hittite  periods  and the  Phrygian, Roman, Late  Roman  and Byzantine periods. Those undertaken in 1967 by the Italians at the tumulus of Topaklı have brought to light settlements from the Early Bronze age to the Byzantine period in 24 structural strata. These furnish proof that the Nevşehir region is a very ancient site of human habitation.

Here, commercial and associated relations among the settlement units emerged to meet the essential needs connected with the transition to sedentary life; communities that possessed and produced the basic materials and commodities for which deıxıand was expressed became leading centers in every era.  At the close of the Early Bronze age (3200-1950 B.C.), Assyrian merchants termed the region within the Kızılırmak crescent the “Land of the Hatti.” Assyrian city merchants in northern Mesopotamia established a widespread and active commercial network in Central Anatolia (1950-1750 B.C.). The names of nine major trading centers and hundreds of small cities appear in the hundreds of records of commercial correspondence made of baked clay that have survived;  among these is the name of Nenessa. Furthermore, one of the natural main routes that linked Aksaray and Kayseri followed the banks of the Kızılırmak river.  Evidence confirms the existence of settlement during the Hittite era. The Assyrian tablets, however, furnish valuable data on Avanos, which today is located within the province of Nevşehir; we are therefore enabled to acquire information about the Nevşehir region by tracing the history of Avanos.

J.C. Gardin and P. Garelli reported in the early nineteenth century that investigation of the commercial routes of the Assyrians had revealed that their terminal points lay as far as the environs of Incesu, Aksaray, Konya, Bor, Niğde and Ereğli and that Nenessa and Washania were situated within the boundaries of this region.  Moreover, tablets inform us that two mer-chants who could travel from Kanesh (Kayseri, Kültepe) to Burushhattum (Acemtumulus) in four days commonly passed through Washania, Nenessa and Ullama.  In 1926, the linguist Emile Forrer deciphered the name “Zu- Wynassa” on one of the tablets in the course of his research in the Boğazköy Hittite Royal archives.  Zu-Winassa, the Hittite name, most likely corresponded to Nenassa, as it was known in the Assyrian language. Nenessa (or, St. Vanot, as noted by Gregoir of Nissa) was transformed, according to the research of N. Thierry, to Venessa and Avanos. In Ottoman records, Avanos is called, alternatively, “Enes,” “Uvenez” or “Evenez.”

Around the year 2000 B.C., city states make their appearance in central Anatolia. During this era, the Hittites established their rule ca. 1750 B.C. when they arrived in Central Anatolia, the land of the Hatti. In roughly f   1200 B.C., the tribes who came from Thrace and the Mediterranean-Aegean E   tribes who appear in the legends of Homer as the destroyers of Troy put an G  end to the Hittite empire: Following this invasion, Anatolia entered an age of darkness that lasted for four hundred years, and it became subject to the Phrygians.

Around 800 B.C., we witness the reappearance in the region of the Hittite kingdom of Tabal. The Tabal kingdom, which achieved fame for its horsebreeding, fell in the mideighth century B.C. The center of this kingdom was Ttıvanna (Tiana-Kemerhisar)  near Bor.  The  first  settlers  in the Cappadocian region were the Hatti, the Luwians and the Hittites.  The Assyrians founded a trading colony in this region between the close of the third millennium B.C. and the beginning of the second millennium B.C which is known as the age of the Assyrian trading colony.  The cuneiform tablets in Assyrian that were discovered at Kültepe (Kanesh) known as the Cappadocian tablets (early second millennium B.C.) are the first written records of Anatolia. Study of the tablets and decipherment of the langauge has revealed that they were produced by Assyrian merchants. These tablets, which shed light on the social and political life of the period, are essentially commercial and economic agreements. These records inform us that at this time small dynasties and principalities existed in Central Anatolia, which were the that the local king independent of a central out hority. They indica doms held sway over small areas and that they maintained a peaceful existence.

Kanesh (Kültepe), the most prominent city of the period, was the center of trading activity in Anatolia.  Expanding greatly in the second half of the ninth centuıy B.C., the Tabal kingdom assumed total control over the region. Confirmation of this situation is gained from the hieroglyphic rock inscriptions occurring at Hacıbektaş-Karaburna, Topada (Acıgöl), Gülşehir-Sıvasa (Gökçetoprak). The region, which had formed the nucleus of the Hittite empire, subsequently came under the hegemony of the Phrygians and the  Persians.   Invasions  of  the  region were  conducted by the Cimmerians and the Scythians and, after 700 B.C., were incorporated into the empires of the Lydians, the Medes and the Persians, respectively. After the sixth century, Nevşehir and the surrounding area came under the rule of the Lydians. In the mid-sixth century, the Lydian king Croesus crossed the Kızılırmak in an attempt to halt the Persians (575-46 B.C.). Thales of Miletus discovered for King Croesus a solution to the problem of crossing the Kızılırmak river. The historian Herodotus relates the following: “At that time Thales, who happened to be present at the bivouac, had a deep trench dug that led toward the upper edge of the bivouac site in a semi-circular form; thus, the river flowed from its normal bed to the trench and, after meandering through the area in the opposite direction, it once again returned to its original bed.  Now, once it had been divided into two streams, it was a simpler matter to cross the river.”  After the defeat of croesus in this battle, the regxon came into the hands of the Persians (Achaemenads). The Persians did not compel the populace to migrate. But, they left the administration of the great land holdings in the hands of the military elite of Persian origin and the local religious leaders. Here, a fusion occurred between the local culture and the Persian culture.  Herodotus describes the Persian cultural structure, as follows: “They do not know how to make religious icons, temples and altars; they slaughter their sacrifices on the tops of mountains, and what they call Zeus is the divine dome of the sky. They dedicate their sacrifices to the sun, the moon, the earth, the fire, the water and the wind.” The fire-worshipping cult of the Persians became particularly important in the Cappadocian region; the volcanic peak Argaios (Mount Erciyes) was especially convenient for this cult.  The Persian gods, unlike the gods of other religions, had no true temples of worship. Instead, certain grounds were sacred to them; these holy sites were scattered throughout the region, with which were associated numerous fire temples. Greek writers called these sacred gröunds “Pirhethee” and their priests “Piree,” that is, “those who make fires.” In the Zend language these priests were called “Atharvan,” or fire priests.  Fire temples were situated on elevated terrain within the sacred grounds and consisted in a stone niche covered with coals that burned continuously.  The Atharvan (Magian priest) wore a long, white robes and, on their heads, wool caps whose peaks fell level with the mouth; each day they would enter the holy gTounds with a bunch of branches and sing hymns for about an hour at the base of the fire temple. On occasion they would offer libations as sacrifices or they would slaughter an animal.  The one who offered the sacrifice would employ a heavy, wooden hammer for this task, for the “use of iron was strictly forbidden….” The most sacred of the holy grounds in Cappadocia were called in Persian “Zela” (Zile).  Professor Emeritus Günaltay specifically reminds us that Strabon reports that the Zela sacred grounds were consecrated to the three most popular gods, whose names were Anaitis, Omanos and Anadates. The Persian beliefs associated with fire worship were rapidly adopted by the Cappadocians.  The Persians were fortunate in their encounter with a perfect geography to contribute support their tenets.  The region, where fires and volcanoes were common formed an ideal terrain for these beliefs. Historians report that temples devoted to fire gods were in existence until the fourth century A.D.

Under Persian rule, the region began to be known as “Cappadocia,” and a Cappadocian satrapy was established.  In the Persian period, animal husbandry was quite developed in Cappadocia, and it is known that the Persians received their tax payment of 360 talents in kind, in the form of  1,500 horses, 2,000 mules and 50,000 sheep. In contrast to the commercial  and money economy in effect in the coastal regions, a landlocked commerce held sway in the interior. The Persian state, whose economic oppor- tunities remained  constricted,  gradually lost power. Prof.  Emeritus Gunaltay has asserted that “During the conquest of Iran, fertile lands were granted to the elite while the villagers were reduced to the position of serfs bound to the soil.  When the Persian nobility lost their wealth through extravagant entertainments, elaborate chases and a superficial life, they would sell their villagers to Greek or Roman slave traders. Only the slaves (serfs) that served in the fire temples were exempt from sale.Such events provide sufficient information as to why the Mesopotamian culture of the era of the Kültepe tablets completely vanished.  Because of such social tragedies, the Cappadocians no longer recalled their national traditions and, therefore, came to submit to the influence of Ionian culture.

Young Alexander, the king of Macedonia, produced the collapse of the great Persian empire through a series of victories over its armies in 334 B.C. and 331  B.C. This  peace  was  broken  by the  Eastern  campaign  of  the Macedonian, Alexander the Great (333-23 B.C.), and an ongoing series of wars was pursued by Alexander’s generals and their descendants. Our earliest historical knowledge indicates that Avanos was founded in the year 332 B.C. by a lieutenant of Alexander named Eumenes. The Alexandran era was followed by the establishment of a Cappadocian kingdom, whose capital was located in Kayseri (Mazaka). The Cappadocian throne at Mazaka changed hands several times.In addition to the constant turnover of political powers,the inhabitants of Cappadocia had become exhausted by the attacks and pillaging by the invaders of the region. Following the transformation from an empire to a republic by Rome, Cappadocia became increasingly subject to oppression.  Rulers were unable to advance beyond acting as a satellite of Rome.  Cappadocia became a Roman province in Asia in 17 A.D.  During this period, because of the poverty in which Cappadocia had fallen, the Roman emperor Tiberius was forced to lighten the oppressive tax burden on the region.  The following year, a Roman governor (legat) was appointed to Cappadocia.  As Strabon relates (18 A.D.), Avanos had now become a very wealthy and developed city. Avanos (Venessa) was the most important of the three prominent cities of the region. Avanos, after Kayseri, as a religious center was second in size and significance and the third largest political administrative center of the state, after Kayseri and Comano Because the chief priest was third most eminent functionary in the kingdom’s hierarchy, he had an income of 3,000 heradul and 15 talents (the equivalent of 500 kilograms of silver at the current exchange rate). The servant Euphrates also informs us that there was a well-established and powerful aristocracy in Venessa. The most fascinating information on Avanos is contained in the writings of monks.

The first of these is Gregoir of Nissa (334-94 A.D.) who, in his letter to hisfriend Adelphois, thanks him for the hospitality he displayed to him at his villa when he was passing through Venessa; the villa was apparently the most luxurious of those in the capital. According to the letter, Venessa is a very developed city provided with all the amenities and possesses a splendid monument to martyrs and wonderful fruit orchards and vineyards from which high quality wine is produced. This letter by Gregoir of Nyssa is the only extant record describing Avanos in antiquity. His letter goes on to relate that “…It is difficult to find words to describe the beauties of Avanos One must see it with one’s own eyes… I have visited numerous places in  my life and I have heard many things; and every place about whose beauties I have been told I have gone to visit. But, after seeing Avanos, none of them bears any distinction by comparison. Neither the famed Helicon nor v the Isles of Bliss nor the plains of Sission nor Thessaly-all fall short of Avanos. Nature that is fashioned in such an aesthetically pleasing manner as it is here has no equal in the whole world.  One should view the Kızılırmak river (Halys) whose waters of crimson hue flow pass near the feet of shepherds grazing their flocks.  On the opposite bank of the Kızılırmak, the beauty of the intense green of the fruit trees, the flourishing vineyards of extraordinary bounty and the pear blossoms set like pearls is incompara- ble. Rather than natural beauty, it seems to possess the rare and excellent beauty of a painting from the hand of a superior artist…. “He goes on to state that at the entrance to the city stood a church in the process of construction.Though its roof was as yet incomplete, it exhibited a supreme loveliness; the church referred to was very probably, as N. Thierry has suggested, the Dere Yamanlı church.

The official policy of Diocletianus (284-305) in persecution of the Christians had no success. The succeeding period of Constantine I.witnessed a stirring time for religious activity; it was a time when it was regarded as ordinary to believe in a number of cults simultaneously and brought about a phenomenon of  religious  syncretism. Even though  Constantine I accepted Christianity by 312 A.D. at the latest, this should not imply that he turned away from the tradition of idol worshipping. It is known that he continued in his old beliefs and customs, that he was even an adherent of the sun cult and that he offered support and assistance to this cult.  Gregoir of Nissa states in his letter that included in the Christian religious ceremonies existed relics of the ancient polytheist ritual for the worship of Zeus. In fact, the ancient polytheist religious concepts had attained dominance for a time. Unfortunately, however, we do not know how long this theological confusion continued at Avanos, which disturbed Gregoir so much. Incidentally, Gregoir is said to have been baptized on his deathbed.

After the fourth century A.D., we have at hand another letter-this one by Ilieron of Machan (now, Göreme) that may also assist us in tracing the his- tory of Venessa (Avanos).  Neither the Romans nor those who came after- wards (the Byzantines) wished to have the region assimilated into their own culture. Rather, their foremost concerns were maintaining control over the free commercial roads and utilization of  the human potential of the Cappadocian region in the Byzantine army.

Cappadocia : a Subterranean Land

Tuesday, August 19th, 2008

Cappadocia : a Subterranean Land

Hewing the rock formations in Cappadocia has possibly been an activity that has been executed of necessity by human beings from earliest times. First of all, the lack of wood in the natural surround and the frequent earth- quakes that have shaken the area would have urged the inhabitants of Cappadocia experiencing the need for a sound shelter to carry on their daily activities to take refuge in the stone blocks.

The fresco that portrays the eruption of Hasan Dağı, which the British archeologist James Mellaart recovered at Çataltumulus and which is regarded as the first landscape depiction, has been dated by Carbon 14 to 5734 B.C.; from that date onwards, both the mountains of Erciyes and Hasan and, especially in that epoch, the small-scale local volcanoes on the Nevşehir plateau constituted unpredictable and unavoidable hazards for the regional inhabitants.

These eruptions of volcanic activity continued with close frequency in Central Anatolia until ca. 2000 B.C.; in fact Michel Thierry has indicated that the depictions  of  erupting volcanoes  on Roman  coins  found on the Cappadocian plateau represent Mount Erciyes.  The people of the region, which was sanctified by its mountains, believed that a giant monster occupied the depths of the volcano and that this monster spewed lava and hurled stones, and they have left depictions of this.  In a Hittite rock relief at Imamkulu from the thirteenth century, the forms of three mountain gods have been drawn. A tunnel that has been discovered, which was excavated for the purpose of sanctifying the mountain cult at the peak of Mount Erciyes, demonstrates how intensely volcanic activity occupied the thoughts of the people of the region.

The earthquakes and fires that occurred as a consequence of volcanic eruptions continued until the Hellenistic period (323-17 B.C.). Strabon cautions that there were fires beneath the earth in certain areas in the proximity of Mount Erciyes and that it constituted a hazard for the most of the people in this area, particularly for the cattle, and that it was necessary to be vigilant against the danger of falling into the fire wells below the surface of the earth. Moreover, he notes that fires were visible in this region after darkfall.

Mount Erciyes, in particular, due to its frequent spews of flames posed a constant threat to the local residents throughout history; for the neolithic house of sunbaked brick, which had supporting posts of wood and whose roof was of packed earth, could be easily overturned.For example, the Italians, who initiated their excavations at the Topaklı tumulus in 1967, ascertained in the third level below the cultural strata dating from the late fifth century to the middle of the seventh century, of the Roman and Hellenistic periods (first century B.C. to first century A.D.), that in almost the settlements of these four structural levels emerged evidence of earthquakes and fires. The fourth level settlement was terminated by a violent fire and the fifth level revealed the bodies of two elderly human beings who were caught in the act of an attempt to ward off something descending upon them and the two tortured bodies of young people clearly express the terrors of an earthquake.

As a result, these geological events urged the people of Cappadocia to take shelter in the rocky formations and to produce these spatial units. But finding an answer to the question of when these spaces were first created is difficult. The archeologist Ö.Yörükoğlu indicates that when a comparison is made between the underground dwellings and the way of life developed in parallel with them and the houses of the Neolithic era they exhibit a strong similarity; just as with the inhabitants of the dwellings in the early settlements, 400 different examples of houses in the underground settlements were built on the same plan in an attached fashion and the entrances and exits were secured through the roof.

This hypothesis suggests that underground settlements were one of the oldest residential units for the inhabitants of Cappadocia. In the eras when the construction techniques of the houses of early human beings were still primitive, so that the houses lacked sufficient soundness to resist the natural disasters of earthquake and fire, the hewing of houses out of rock provided sound, unshakeable, fire resistant houses that maintained a temperature, stable in both winter and summer. In other words, they appear to have been the ideal and the most secure structure. In the rock-hewn spaces and the underground cities no evidence of any natural disaster, frost, rain or the damages of earthquake is visible. These spatial units constituted a perfect foil against the natural harshness of the Cappadocian region, where few trees grew and the summers were very hot and the winters very cold.

Generally, such structures were built on the tops of mountains or their slopes situated in spots providing security and defense. Thus, human life was protected from dangers, which enabled them to pursue life in tranquillity.  The interior space and its divisions of the fairly large underground areas occupied by the subterranean cities exhibit a parallel with each other from the perspective of being multifunctional in nature. The underground cities, therefore, sometimes give the startling impression of being living quarters that have been reproduced on a gigantic scale; such cities whose spaces have been carved out of rock leave no clues concerning their age. The time epochs during which the rocks were carved are buried in historical darkness.

The fact that the underground cities were multifunctional in character and were organized to meet all kinds of need, it is unknowable under which special conditions and demands they were created, which obviates the dating of these structures, and we are hindered in comprehending why they were created.For instance, the matter is complicated by the fact that they were equally convenient for purposes of continuous or temporary residence or emergency seclusion.These spatial units generally had no toilet facilities-with the exception of the underground cities of Tarlarin and Güzelyurt. Under the circumstances, this lends weight to the possibility that they were utilized for the purpose of going into hiding for defensive purposes.  We might posit that they each represent a “spare” city that acted as a temporary life insurance policy against life-threatening events encountered on the surface of the earth.

The constant enlarging of the underground cities and the effects of permanent residence and because succeeding civilizations have effaced the traces of those that preceded them makes it difficult to assign corresponding time phases.  The oldest levels are the entrance levels. Excavations into subterranean cities began in 1964-65, when the view was widespread that they were used by Christians for hiding. The weak aspect of this concept was that it concentrated on dating the construction of the underground cities to the Christian era while the previous eras were kept at a remove from the conceptual framework.

The recovery of a statue of a hawk eagle belonging to the Hittites in the Derinkuyu underground city, however, demonstrates that these settlements extend to a very distant past. Taking that as a starting point and tracing the historical strata, we were able to determine that the underground spaces were also used in the Phrygian period. At Tyana in the environs of Niğde, two Phrygian inscriptions exist containing the name “Mida;” of greater significance than the contents, however, is the fact that one of the inscriptions was carved on a round door stone.  Similarly, a square worship space belonging to the Phrygian period is located at the entrance of the under- ground city Mazıköy, and this temple contains signs indicating that it was dedicated to the goddess Kybele.

Historical soundings confirm that these underground areas were in use in a continuous manner.The most detailed information associated with the subterranean spaces belongs to the fifth century B.C.Historical evidence confirms that they were iri existence in 401 B.C. For example, Xenophon tours one such city in Cappadocia in 401 B.C. and states that “…the houses were underground and the doors were each like the mouth of a well-a nar- row outer surface beyond which its circumference is enlarged. Paths had been excavated for the use of livestock, but the human inhabitants used step ladders.Goats, sheep, câttle and fowl jointly occupied the dwellings with the children. A great quantity of wheat, barley, dried vegetables and barley wine was stored. The wine was kept in earthenware vessels, on the surface of which grains of barley were floating….This drink was too strong unless it was diluted with water.  Its taste was quite pleasant once you became accustomed to it….”What is of interest here is that Xenophon provides detailed information about the interiors of the underground dwellings and  that the people of the region were found beneath the surface of the earth at the time of a pillaging raid by Spartan irregulars and mercenary Greek soldiers. It displays the importance of these dwellings for security and defense.

In conclusion, we might inquire whether the cities on the face of the earth were built above the underground cities or whether the underground cities were hewed out of the living rock beneath the cities on the surface above or whether their construction was contemporaneous?At present no answer is forthcoming.But, currently, our interest is piqued by the knowledge that underneath or in proximity to each of the settlement areas in Cappadocia lies a subterranean city.

But, the real danger on the Nevşehir plateau was its own geopolitical position rather than any natural disaster.  In Ramsey’s words, it represented a frontier between the East and the West and a region where the spirits of the East and the West came into collision and where their respective cultures made an encounter.Consequently, Anatolia was the scene of continuous warfare and military troops were constantly on the move from east to west and from west to east to conduct warfare. The dusty roads of Cappadocia were therefore witness to very swift raids and invasions and the local inhabitants hid themselves in the underground cities to defend their lives and protect their property.

Such a practice had be implemented from the time of the coming to Anatolia  of  the  Thracians  and  continued  with  the  Scythians,  the Achaemenids, the Macedonians and the Turks, among others. Coins, for example, from the reigns of Hadrian ( 117-38 A.D.) and Justinian II (565-78 A.D.) and artefacts from other similar civilizations have been recovered from various levels of the underground cities. From the seventh and eighth centuries onwards, attacks by the Arabs were increasing in intensity.

The Arabs called the underground cities “Matamir.”  Rather than conquer the Cappadocian region, they hoped to seize the wealth of the region in the form of wheat, barley, slaves and livestock and, for this reason, they orga- nized swift assaults.According to the Arab chroniclers, a number of matamir were also captured during these raids; for instance, Yakubi reports that El-Mamun seized many matamir.Tabari also relates that Gaffar ebu Dinar conquered the citadels and matamirs on the Nevşehir plateau in the year 863-64. In the tenth and subsequent centuries, references to matamirs increase in number in the Arab sources; Masu’di informs us that another underground city was seized in the fifth Byzantine province “Al-Q,abadug,” where the Cappadocians kept their stores of wheat. Among the Arab chroniclers,  Ibn  Hurdadbeh  makes the  most  intriguing definition  of  the “Underground Land or Land of Subterranean Cities” and names the following cities as underground settlements: Magida (Niğde), Balansa, Malandasa (Melendiz),  Koumla,  Malakouba  (Derinkuyu),  Badala,  Barnawa  and Salamoun.

In times of war, the underground cities were utilized by the local inhabitants and even as fortresses by military garrisons.  Further, N. Thierry’s research indicates that these cities were situated on the Byzantine military lines.  Nicephor Phocas in reference to the military strategical elements of the Cappadocian region states that special observer units were stationed to  south of the great Karahöyük and the subterranean settlements of the tumuli that are visible 500 meters east of the underground village of Ören associated with the village of Yeşilöz that lies on the Avanos-Gülşehir road.

In the Derinkuyu underground city, the transition from the first level to the second level is linked by a corridor with a stone door. The entrance to the first floor exhibits no resemblance to the other floors, because it possesses no similar system. It opens directly to the outside and displays characteristics that differ from those observed in the Roman Byzantine periods.  Our attention is drawn by the late Hittite rock inscriptions that appear in the vicinity of the underground cities in these and even earlier periods.The aim of constructing these underground cities was to provide temporary shelter for the local inhabitants in the face of hostile elements of all kinds. Once the danger had passed, a return was made to normal life on the surface. In the flow of history, the Cappadocian region was constantly under threat of various kinds of assaults, and the local inhabitants constructed these kinds of places, which are unique and have no equal in the world. From every house on the surface, a secret passage led to openings in the earth that provided temporary refuge in the underground city in times of danger.

Regardless of whether the underground cities were built for military, civilian or defensive purposes, the reason for their existence requires a simultaneous search for both the associated data and events that have vanished in the depths of history.

Chronology Of Nevşehir

Monday, August 18th, 2008

Chronology Of Nevşehir

B.C. 1650-1460 The era of the Hititian Kingdom
B.C. 140, 1200-1190 The era of the Hititian Empire
BC. 1200 The Egean People come to Anatolia in a great wave of migration
B.C. VII. C Kimmerian and Schvtian raids
B.C. 680-610 Assyrian rule
B.C. 550-332 Persian rule
B.C. 332- A.D. 17 The era of the Cappadocian Kingdom
17-395 The Roman Rule
17-395 The Roman Rule
395 The begining of the Byzantian rule 1097 The region suffers during the First Crusade
1186 Nevşehir and Kayseri are left under the rule of Nuredin Sultanşah
1195 Kutbeddin Melikşah kills Nureddin Sultanşah and occupies Nevşehir
1318 Nevşehir and the whole Middle Anatolia is ruled by Timurtaş, the Governor of the hhanids.
1340 Nevşenir becomes a part of the Eretna Beyliği which an independent state
1365 Karamanoğlu Ali Bey occupies the region
1402 Tamerlane gives Nevşehir back to the Karamanlı’s after defeating the Ottomans
1466 Nevşehir and its environs definitely becomes a part of the
1867 The Liva of Nevşehir is made a Kaza (a bigger administrative unit) and becomes a part of the Niğde Povince
1954 Nevşehir itself becomes a province.

The Turkish Period In Nevşehir

Monday, August 4th, 2008

The Turkish Period In Nevşehir

Nevşehir has been a predominantly rural area for a long time despite its favourable position located on the inter- section point of the roads in Asia Minor, alongside its productive agricultural lands and its historical heritage dating back to pre - historic settlements,  which also includes a developed vine production and the rock churches of later periods in nearby locations. Yet the region had lost its importance during the Seljuk rule and the later periods of Danişmenli’s, the era of Mongol invasion, the rule of Karamanlı and Dulkadirli princedoms.The region was incorporated into the Ottoman empire during the reign of Sultan Yavuz Selim in 1515.

The village with the old name of Muşkara was administered by the town of Ürgüp, both being a part of the sancak (province) of Niğde which was a part of the vilayet (a larger administrative unit comprising several sancaks in. Ottoman empire) of Karaman. Its incorporation to the Ottoman empire had not created the conditions for the development of the region and it had to wait until early l8th century when Damat İbrahim Paşa, a high administrator born in this region became the grand veziir of the empire.This person changed the name and identity of the Muşkara village, creating a short lived renaissance during which the place took the name of “Nevşehir” (literally  the new town).

The citadel built on the high ground at the southwest of the town is supported by towers and controls the whole plateau. The citadel is dated back to the Seljuqi period and the masonry consists of roughly hewn stones laid quite neatly. The corners are supported by silindirical towers, and neatly hewn stones have been used at the level of the loopholes and the gates.One of the entrances has an arched gateway with pointed niches at both sides and the other is straight. There is an inscription showing that the citadel was repaired by Damat İbrahim Paşa. The guards were reinforced at the time of these repairs and new artillery pieces were brought in from İstanbul.

The Kaya Mosque which is one of the oldest monuments of the city has been built in 1715 by Damat İbrahim Paşa. The script of the ornamental inscription on the marble plate placed above the low arched courtyard door has been writen by Dürri, the poet. The strucure which is placed in an outer courtyard comprises a square shaped space covered by a single dome and an outer attendance hall comprising three parts.The columns at the entrance have oval cross sections and have simple prismatic capitals. The dome which has a diameter of 10 metres has been made of finely hewn stones and is a rare example of its kind. The walls, pendentives and the inner surface of the dome has been wholly plastered and later ornamented with chiseled designs. During the restoration, unpleasent alterations have been made on the niche (mihrap and minber)  which has the characteristic ornamantations of the l8th century; yet on the general, the original lines can still be observed. The minaret rising above the right hand corner of the outer attendance hall resembles the l8th century İstanbul mosques with its large base, the supports of the minaret and the knotty cap. Besides the western influences as seen on the stone ornaments, the tulip figures engraved over the courtyard door are interesting, because they symbolise the era which is named after this flower.

The külliye (a complex comprising religious, educationa and social services) built on the slopes lying on both sides of Camii Cedit Avenue has been founded entirely according to the wishes of Damat İbrahim Paşa.These  buildings of various functions competed between 1718 and 1730 have turned this part of the city into a lively cultural site.Among these buildings some of which have been placed symetrically at places and others at different angles according to their topographic position, the mosque lies at the middle of a large outer courtyard. The Kurşunlu Mosque attracts attention with its marble inscription on the northern entrance of the courtyard.

This inscription comprising 20 lines had been ordered to the famous poet Nedim in İstanbul and is introducing the mosque and Damat İbrahim Paşa. This entrance at the shape of a crone door is more elaborate than the doors on the south and eastern sides. The şadırvan (fountain) placed on the middle of the outer courtyard is a delicate structure with its domed roof supported by eight columns. The marble reservoir which has taps on all sides and ornamented wooden shed has been built with elegant lines resembling the fountains of İstanbul.

The mosque presents a compact composition dominating the complex with its five sectioned attendance hall, single domed main hall and the elegant minaret. The building has been completed in 1826 acording to the plan of Chief Architect Mehmet Ağa under the supervision of Serkis Kalfa. A great number of artisans and decorators also took part in this work. The single domed structure placed over square walls is one of the outstanding examples of a style which has been seen since the l4th century. The texture of the wall built by neatly hewn stones is enlivened by the arches made from coloured stones in the outer attendance hall.This section which is covered by five domes presents an appearance conforming to the classical measures due to the muquarnad capitals  and the niches. The door of the main entrance has been divided into several sections with the rising cap, the inlet provided by a semicircular arch, the ornamenal panel, inscription and a low arch. The rectangular surface is providing space for ornaments and there is quite a large place over the low arch with a two coloured keystone for the inscription. The big dome placed over suporting walls and the vault covered octagonal niche presents a compact and airy interior spacing. The names of Sultan Ahmet and Damat İbrahim Paşa are seen on the inscription. The quarter of the müezzin (the person calling the prayer) is placed on the adjoining walls, thus providing more space at the middle and a considerable amount of light has ben provided through many windows at warying heigths. The front of the niche has been covered with a vault and an extension to the south is making it a focal point of interior decoration.The surface of the niche is surrounded with series of profiles and muquarnas under a cap ornamanted with interwoven branch designs.Such a complicated ornamantation of the niche with branch designs and reliefs is a very outstanding order of composition for its period.

The ten staired stone stairway at the righthand side of the niche entrance also displays fine workmanship with a kiosk which has a pointed cap, entrance panel and other details. The mosque looks simple on the outside, but the interior spaces presents an extremely rich ornamantation.The surfaces of the walls, the arches, the interior surfaces of the vault and the dome and the borderings have been decorated with chiseled designs almost giving  the appearance of being interwoven. The bright windows are a part of the interior space with their many colours and have the designs of the classical period as well as those belonging to the Tulip Period.The minaret rising from the intersection point of the assembly hall and the main hall is well suited to the charactaristics of the classical period with its prismatic base and polygonal body. The external galery is supported by consoles showing the characteristics of the l8th century and the same style can also be seen on other ornamental items. The delicate siloutte of the minaret and the thin bodies of the towers which are an extension of the interior supports are creating a dynamic expression for the general composition of the mass through their rising lines.

The madrassa lying on the western side of the Kurşunlu Mosque is now a library. The structure comprising domed pavillions and rooms placed around a square shaped open courtyard carries classical lines with neatly hewn stones and coloured arch stones. There are two doors facing each other on the same axis and the marble inscription over the door under the low arch which also has a wooden shed was writen by Vehbi the Poet. After the entrance hall which is covered with a vault, comes the courtyard surrounded by the rooms of the students each of which has a fireplace and a wardrobe. There is a larger space at the norteast corner and it is entered through an arch which has an inscripion also from the poet Nedim. The inscription dated 1727 mentions the names of the sultan and İbrahim Paşa once again. The library whose chisel works were made by a master from Kütahya by the name of Halil has a rich colection of manuscripts. Among more than 9 thousand manuscripts there are the 187 volumes given by İbrahim Paşa himself alongside three large sized Kurans, the “Külliyat-ı Sadi” with miniatures and the “Şifa-ı Şerif” which was handwritten by Hafız Osman. It is known that the famous teacher Konavi Çelebi had lectured in this madrassa which was an important establishment in its era.

The imaret (kitcen for the poor) lying between the madrassa and the priary school consists of a kitchen, two rooms and a storeroom carved into a large stone block. These buildings are all around the same courtyard, and are structures built from the same stone material. The entrance to the imaret is through a low arch covered by a large wooden shed. The rectagtılar inscription over the arch is writen by the poet Vehbi and carries the date of 1726. The dome covering the large interior has been given an extra heigth at the top with the help of a polygonal chimney and this again has been covered by a small dome which has stripes. The other rooms adjacent to this place are lunching rooms covered with vaults.

The primary school lying at the southern end of the külliye is a vault cov- ered classroom and an entrance unit with a porch. This structure as been built on a large rock. The inscription at the entrance ate 1826 has also been written by the poet Vehbi.

The bath lying at the northern end of the külliye consists of units where the caldarium, frigidarium and the tepiditarium are lined on an axis. The entrance, the rooms lined at both sides and the frigidarium are lined by stone divans. There is an octagonal pool with a fountain at the middle and a ceiling window at the main room. The tepiditarium which consists of a series of  L shaped rooms is reached through an interior door. From this room covered with vaults and domes we pass to the largest room of the structure which is the caldarium. This structure is also covered by a large dome. The adjoining fire room and the wood storage units are both long and thin structures. The inscription on the interior gate has been written by the poet Nedim.

The units carved into a large rock at the western end of the külliye have been extended out with a series of extensions and covers. The vaulted part supported by pillars and the units designed as a cool underground store- hose are the remains of a caravanserai.

There are a series of fountains some of which were built by Damat İbrahim Paşa for the küliye and others for servicing the different quarters of the city. One of the fountains of the külliye is on the southern wall of the mosque, and the other is on the supporting wall at the corner of the primary school. These units, as well as the other fountains in the city are rectangular masses slightly projecting from the walls into which they are placed.

The fountain of Orduoğlu on the Benli Street of the Tahta Mahalle quarters is a stone structure with a low triangular front facade and profiled frame resembling the antic structures. Its details and ornamantation are quite simple. From the inscription dated 1726 we understand that this was built by Damat İbrahim Paşa. The fountains of Tavukçu, Bekoloğlu and Çekiç are units built from neatly hewn stones and with a stye comprising pointed niches and they have similar inscriptions dated 1726 with the name of Damat İbrahim Paşa. There are no traces of an agora type fountain in Nevşehir.

The second location where the buildings of the Turkish period are concentrated is the village of Damse which lies 18 km to the southeast of Ürgüp. The mosque, the madrassa and the two tombs are remains belonging to the külliye of Taşkın Paşa. According to an assumption all these buildings were built by Taşkın Paşa who was the son of Kılıç Arslan II, a sultan of the Seljuqies. The best known piece of these buildings is the Palace of Taşkın

Paşa whose main door has reached our day in quite a good shape. These structures are best examples of stone works belonging to the age of the Karamanlı’s. The palace lying on the road to Damse on a point 3 kilometers from the mosque had been identified as a madrassa for a long time. Although there is no inscription over the main door, the structure must have been built before 1350 since it is mentioned in a foundation register from that date. It has been decorated extensively with stone works showing Seljuqi characteristics with their geometric order.The decoration program has been very concentrated with high archs, low archs and other ornamantations. Some of the walls are still standing and the large windows can be seen. A niche built at the righthand side of the entrance indicates that this place was once used as a small mosque. This place has the same decorations as the main entrance except for a muquarna design. The general layout of the building resembles a madrassa built on the north to south axis. If this is the case, it is startling to see the door on the western front. The traces of the walls gives the impresion that all the structure except the space at the middle was covered by vaults.

The mosque lying in a courtyard can not be dated since the inscription on its main entrance is lacking. The decorations of the main door consists of muquarnad corniches and a wide belt of geometric designs. The other columns and facades have ornamentations which have comon characteristics with those made at the end of the l3th century and with the examples seen in Karaman. Fences have been added to the window under the pointed arch and the inscription under this unit has also been written in a later period. The interior is reached after passing a low arch ornamented with decorated stones.

The interior is covered at the middle by vaults which have six supports and the sides have simple earthen roofs. The vault at the middle is made of  hewn stones and the column headings are reused units. The dome in front of the niche was built with a design of triangular pendantives. The minerat  rising from the western side of the outer assembly hall attracts attention with its different characteristics. İt rises over four walls and has been completed by a honeycomb shaped conical roof. The wooden niche which is presently in the Ankara Etnographical Museum is the single example of its  kind. It is 3.5 metres high and was made of walnut wood, uniquely decorated with geometrical and plant designs. The Ayet el-Kürsi joins the ornamental panels at the begnning and ending points. It also has a panel of geometrical designs consisting of 12 armed stars placed in between the strips of writings.The whole niche, together with its highly pointed arch  has been decorated with writings and designs with forms taken from plants. The minber of the mosque has also been taken to the Etnographica Museum. It is 3.16 metres high and is decorated with geometrical forms on all panels. The smaller surfaces have plant form ornamantations and there are also writings taken from the holy book on the parapet rails. This is one of the notable examples of wooden minbers in Anatolia and may be belonging to the same master due to its similar characteristics.

There is a smaller structure also used for the same purpose on the same courtyard and adjacent to the mosque from its northeast corner. This structure named as “Yazlık Camii” (Summer Mosque) also displays fine workmanship. The structure which provides uninterruptud pasage to the courtyard from its western side has a double support cover system. An imposing kümbet placed at the eastern side of the mosque attracts attention with its form showing a  continuity of the Seljuqian tradition. This mosoleum monument does not have an inscription yet some people date it to the year 1342 and connect it to Taşkın Paşa. Its base is a square shaped stone structure, turning into an actogonal mass with beveled corners. Its entrance is a monumental gate and it is covered with a prismatic cone. Tha surface framed with geometrical  border designs has been deepened by a niche in the form of a high a arch.The monolithic arch stone is decorated with eigth armed stars. Due to its ornamental characteristics and its intensive workmanship,  it is belived to be built after the l3th century. Its base has been carved into the underlying rock.

The kümbet lying on the courtyard at the northern side of the mosque does not have an inscription but it is belived to be the tomb of Hızır Bey. It has ben planned as an open monument placed on six supporting corners. The mass which opens out with arches ends with a pyramidal cap. The structure rests on a straight base and is a rare example for its era with its muquarnas and other chiseled ornamental forms. It is entered from a door at the end of the stairway lying on the southern side. There are three marble coffins under the dome which has pendantives.

From the inscriptions it is seen that the coffins belong to sons of Tahirüddin Bey who was the son of Taşkın Paşa. If these persons with the names of İlyas, Hızır and Hasan were really the grandsons of Taşkın Paşa, the kümbet must have been built after the year 1350.

The township of Gülşehir lying south of the Kızılırmak River formerly carried the name of Arapsun and has an important group of buildings belonging to the Turkish states begining with the Seljuqs. The mosque of the  Kızılkaya Village has an inscription stating that it was built in the year 1293 by a woman named Karaçay Hatun. It has a small rectangular shape. The interior space is divided with the help of six supports into three corridors  which are perpendicular to the niche and this space gets daylight through the windows on the stone walls. The corridors on the sides are covered vith a vault and the midle one with a vault and a small dome with pendantives. The minaret on the west wall is at the shape of a kiosk lifted on four supports. The low stone arch is the only entrance. The supporting towers at the eastern and western walls creates a dynamism and they also project out at  the level of the niche to support this effect.

The Taş Mosque in Tuzköy Village has a widthwise plan with two corridors parallel to the wall of the niche. The roof system placed on two supports consists of a dome over the niche and crosssectional vaults as well as star shaped ones. Alongside its mihrap at the shape of a simple niche it has a minber built at a later period and a newly built minaret. Since it has no inscription, it is not possible to establish its date.

Acording to its inscription, the Aşçıbaşı Mosque which has a rectangular  plan was built in the year 1715 by a certain Süleyman Ağa who was chief cook at the palace. The section with the straight roof at the north remains  from the original construction and this place was carved out of the rock block and divided with a support at the middle. The southern section  was added at a later time and is covered with vaults at the shape of ribs. The minaret climbed by an external stairway is at the shape of a kiosk with its cap placed over four supports.

The monumental buildings of Gülşehir belongs to the Külliye of Karavezir which comprises a mosque and a madrassa. According to the inscription the Mosque of Karavezir was built in the year 1779 by Seyyid Mehmet Paşa who was famous with the nickname of Karavezir. The building has a  dynamic composition and the side walls get narrower as they rise on carrying  towers and horizontal blocks. The walls were built of coloured stones and were made to look more dynamic with high arched windows. The heavy  towers at the corners and the niche are other elements that adds movement to the plan which is a square form covered with a single dome. The assambly hall comprises four sections covered with three domes and a vault. The minaret rising from the norteastern corner of the main hall is a delicate structure in the classical form. The large arches uniting the corner supports has enabled the construction of a large number of windows on the walls.

The cover of the outer assembly hall supported by capital stones joins the top of the main door which merges the barocco and amphir ihfluanceln the interior, although the main dome rising on the pendatives at the corners displays a simple structure, the heavy ornamentation cancels this simple ness. The front of the niche which projects out from the south wall under the same vault cover takes a large amount of daylight from the several rows of windows.

There is a belt of holy inscriptions over the first row of windows. Wesee tulip forms very frequently among the capitals, chisel works and other orna mental items some of which shows European influance. This decoration which gives the impression of a third dimension with the light and shadows continues at the stone niche. The details made from good quality marble displays a rich appearance resembling jewellery works. The mihrap which  has been built in the form of a polygonal niche has been covered with an oyster figure and limited on both sides with a form of many knotted column.

The madrassa lying on the other side of the street has reached our day quite a good form with its structure built from neatly hewn stones. The building in which the rooms and pavillions are lined on a “L” shaped open courtyard was built in the year 1780 by Mehmet Paşa. The inscription giving us this information has been placed over the entrance of the courtyard. The pavillion in front of the rooms is covered by a straight roof carried on  rectangular suppoıts beveled at the corners. The rooms presently used asa library have the same plan. The rooms have been covered with pendantived domes, windows, deep niches and fireplaces. The projections made by the  chimneys âre the elements which gives dynamism to the external silouette.The main room at the southeast corner however, does not have a fireplace.

The Başçeşme (fountain) which is considered to be a part of the külliye has the characteristics of an agora fountain although it joins the low walls from the sides. It has a stone roof with sharp lines and a facade which takes the form of a niche by an arch in wavy form. The marble inscription was writen by a poet named Lütfi in 1779 and beneath this is a belt with the “C” and “S” profiles which are frequently seen in late Ottoman architecture. The other fountains in Gülşehir are the Beyler, Bayraktar and Sipahi fountains in the other quarters of thetown. They all have the date of 1779 on their inscriptions and are built in the form of smaller scale wall fountains.

The county of Avanos lying by the Kızılırmak River is a center attracting attention with a very important caravanserai and two mosques. The structure lies on the road to Ürgüp, 5 kilometeres from the town, yet its date can not be established since the inscription is missing. The Sarıhan caravanserai consisting of a courtyard and closed sections is a Seljuq work of fine masoary with extraordinary rich ornamentation. Researches have indicated that it was built during the reign of Sultan İzeddin Keykavus II. This struc ture is based on 2.000 sqare metres and its main door at the eastern side is an extending mass which has been heavily ornamented. The facade and the sides have compositions mainly of geometrical designs and the enterance turning inwards with a large arch of two coloured keystones shows a continuation of the same ornamentation with the niches on the sides. Passing inside through the low arch which has a richly decorated profile we come to the vaulted room over which lies a small mosque.This small ached from interiors through a strairway adjacent to and it has a cap which is cylinderical at the ınside and outside, making a rising on the general composition of the After the vault covered room near the courtyard the main  througha large door. The stables arealso fully closed withrong arch placed on 16 supports. Sarıhan is one of the outst works of Middle Anatolia with heavily ornamented work entrances and its coloured stones.

The mosque which is belived to be built by Alaeddin Keykub has been altered by the many restorations in different perio stone dome at the eastern side of the niche which is supported es and it is belived that the vaulted section is an adition by Mehmet in the l6th century. The mihrap and minber have  nal character since they were repaired and painted so many tangular room at the north is reached through a passage dome and it is quite a recent addition. The minaret at the sout added in the year 1950.

The Avanos Ulu Camii (mosque) which is also known as the (Underground Mosque) is an Ottoman work from the l8th sructure which has a rectangular plan is reached down from level through a stairway. It is a stone structure covered with a ported vault. The daylight enters through the four windows wall as the niche and the whole interiors have been plastered is a simple niche and the minber is in the form of a tribune ition.

In Avanos we find interesting examples of housing architect monumental structures, such as the mansions of Dr. Hacı  Cafer Ağa. The region is also famous with its potteries. The speried by the Kızılırmak river and the clay beds in the envoirme place an ideal zone for ceramics.  The mud used in this wo from the locations of Gedik, Kurubayır, Cinderesi, Kızılöz and turned into a very suitable material for ceramics after vario The oily red mud takes its final form in simple workshops.

These workshops are named “işlik” or “çanakhane” by the loc and are vault covered simple rooms. The floors of the shops are and there are 1-4 tools in each one. The tools are placed near  point which takes maximum daylight and are caled “çıkrık”.The mud begins to turn on the wheel which is set into motion the artisan and in a few minutes the plastic mass gains unbeli Tourists crowod around to see what the artisan can make hands in a dim light.

The mud is kept in water to get the suitable density, and the be produced is chosen according to the characteristics whether it is soft, oily, hard, silted or etc. The various material artisan to produce ceramics of different dimensions. The fort from the wheels with care and left to dry on an airy bank nam.After being painted and glazed they are placed in ovens desired hardnessat 600 - 700 C. The paints as well as the formı for various purposes. The traditional production consists of post ,jugs and cooking utensiles ranging from 20 cm to 1.5 metres. They are fully func “gebece” and “yağdan” according to the their general form and the form of their handles. In the recent years artisans have been producing works for the giftshops  imitating ancient Hititian and Frigian forms. There  are presently 30-35 masters among the craftsman in the workshops.

Architecture

Sunday, August 3rd, 2008

Architecture

The layout plan of the Hacı Bektaş-ı Veli complex is identical to that of the Turkish palaces of those centuries, with three courtyards. The units inside the complex were located  around  these courtyards in a manner in keeping with their functions. Here, in the “Pîr Evi”, where an almost military hierarchy and discipline reigned, there was a unit for every conceivable function. These units all bore names specific to the terminology of the Bektaşi sect “the Guest House”, “the Horse House” (stables), “the Bread House” (bakery). At the head of each unit, which was organised like a “hearth” or “cell”, there was a “baba”, or elder, with his suite of dervishes, or “souls” as they were called. All of these “elders” were answerable to the “dede baba”, or “chief elder” of the “Pîr Evi” (house of the Founder), who was the head of the order.

The first of these courtyards, which lie on a north-south direction, but on different axes, is known as “the Nadar Courtyard”, which lies to the south. Access to the courtyard is via the Çatal (fork) Gate on the south side. This gate has a low arch, above which is a niche surmounted by a pointed arch, reflecting the classical style of Ottoman architecture. Many visitors coming from distant places were received in the complex and  the Nadar Courtyard was surrounded by service areas and facilities for these travellers. To the west  of  Çatal  Gate, which was known to have had a dovecote on one side, was Mihman Evi (the Guest House), where visitors slept, to the east was At Evi (the Stables), at the east end of the courtyard was the Main Larder, whose functions were linked to those of the Kitchenin the second courtyard. The Bakery lay between the Larder and the Kitchens. These buildings, which are no longer in existence, were siııiple structures with walls of rubble stone and mud brick and flat roofs of timber.

The Laundry was located in the group of buildings to  the west of  the Second Courtyard and also opened on to the Nadar Courtyard. It consisted of two rooms, one of which was the actual laundry, the other being the place where the dead were washed before burial. The fountain in the east wall of  this  courtyard is known as öáler (the Three) Fountain, or the Feyzi Baba Fountain. Its design and ornamentation, just like many features of the complex, indicate that it could date from the l6th century. On the other hand, an inscription in the sülüs style of calligraphy informs us that it was built by Fatma Fikriye Hanım, wife of the Grand Vizier Halil Rıfat Pasha (1827-1901) in H.1320 (1902). The fountain, in which yellow and red cut stoize have been used, has a niche surmounted by a pointed arch adorned with a Bektaşi crown in the “hüseyni” style.

On the north side of the Nadar Courtyard, in a wall made of reddish cut stone is the Üçler Gate, which  provides  access to the  Second Courtyard, known as Dergâh (dervish  convent) Courtyard, or Meydan  Courtyard.  Above the  gate, which is surmounted by a pointed arch of yellow cut stone, is a triangular lunette. On the square reddish stones at the sides are rosettes of twelve segments, symbolising the twelve  imams. There are three steps on either side of the landing on the other side of this gate leading down into the courtyard, wi th pool is the square bowl of the fountain and above it is a triangular lunette surmounted by a crown in the hüseyni style, below which is an inscription from which we learn that the pool was built under the guidance of Hacı Feyzullah Dede of Tepedelen (d.1913) on behalf of Nazlı Hanım, wife of Halil Pasha, governor of Beirut, in H.1326 (1908). There are colonnades on the east and west sedis of DergÉh Courtyard. Behind the colonnades are areas arranged in two groups which were used for various purposes, such as worship, the admi tration of the Complex and of the Order. In the east wing are (from south to north), the Arslanlı (lion) Fountain, the Kitchens and mesjid. Above the fountain is a structure known as the Kitchen Pavilion. The group of rooms in the middle, on the west  side  of the courtyard belonged to the Meydan House, (where services took place), those on the south side to the Guest House (Mihman Evi) and the Laundry and the ones to the north were the Larder. Access to the winter quarters of Dede Baba (the head of the Order) was via the Larder; the walls of the former formed a protrusion on the north east side of the courtyard. On the upper floor of the Larder was the pavilion of Dede Baba, which commanded a view of the entire complex.

The colonnade surrounding the Dergâh Courtyard consisted of five columns in front of the Kitchens to the east, three in front of the mesjid and seven in its west wing; these square columns are of cut stone and they support fifteen pointed arches. It is certainly no coincidence that numbers such as three, five and seven, all of which occupy an important place in Bektaüi symbolism, have been used in the arrangement of the columns. Between the first and second arch after the entrance in its east wing is an anonymous verse dated H.951 (1544/45) stating when the colonnade was built.   

In an inscription which adorns the pier of the wall on the right side of the Arslanlı (lion) Fountain, it is stated that the fountain was built by Malkoçoğlu Bâli Bey, an “akıncı” who led forays into new territories. The other inscription on its front informs us that  it  was  restored  in H.1270 (1853/54). The person mentioned in the latter inscription was said to be “Kara Fatma Hatun/Sultan of Egypt”. Adorned with six pointed arches of yellow and red cut stone laid in decorative patterns, the fountain belongs to the classical period of Ottoman architecture. In the middle of this fountain, which also manifests provincial Mameluke influence, is a statue of a lion said to have been brought from Egypt by Kara Fatma Hatun. This statue, in which Western influences can also be detected, and on which the words “Ya Ali” and “Zülfikâr” (the cleft sword of Ali) are carved, represents His Excellency Ali, the saint known as “the Lion of Allah”. Together with this, on the facade of the fountain, are three lüle’s (short pipes used to measure water discharge), five flat, dodecahedral stones and a number of twelve-segmented rosettes, all of which are of symbolic significance. The inscription on the inner door of the Kitchens states that they were built in H.968 (1560/61) by Malkoçoğlu Bâli Bey. The Kitchens were regarded as the most important part of the Pîr Evi, which was visited by a large number of people. The “baba”, or person in charge of the kitchens, was the second most important person in the complex after Dede Baba.

On a symmetrical axis with the kitchens, the design of which is an interesting synthesis of functional and symbolic architectural elements, are two corridors which come after the outer door and, in the east wall of the building is a fireplace where the Black Cauldron, one of the symbols of the Bektaşi order and the Corps of Janissaries, once stood. On the right hand (south) side of the corridors, which terminate in gates ornamented with the dodecahedral stones referred to previously were the rooms of Aşevi Baba (Chief Cook) and on the left (north) side, two special larders attached to the Kitchens. In the room of Aşevi Baba, which is rectangular (4m x 3m) and has a barrel vauled ceiling is a sarcophagus dedicated to an unknown Head of Kitchens. The room of Aşevi Babası (this person was in charge of the kitchens as a whole) is comparatively large (6.75 x 4.00) and its position overlooking the main kitchen where the food was cooked indicates the privileged position of its occupant. The larders referred to above (measuring 6.50 x 3.00 m and 4.50 x 3.00 m) were used for the storage of certain foodstuffs such as meat, yoghourt and milk, which needed to be kept cool. The small amount of light entering these rooms and the current of air which passed through them made them suitable for use as “cold stores”.

The wooden beams supporting the ceiling of the main kitchen, which measures 8.50 x 8.50 m, are reinforced by a broad, pointed arch of cut stone extending in a north-south direction. The biggest of the seven fireplaces is that of the Black Cauldron on the axis of the east wall. The Black Cauldron, which symbolised fertility and bounty, was only used on the l2th day of the month of Muharrem (the first month of the Arabic lunar year), when elegies for the martyrs of Kerbelâ were read, to cook aşure (a sweet dish prepared for this day). Food for everyday consumption was prepared in the other fireplaces. In the north west corner of the ki